Paris is a beautiful city and I was already quite charmed with it by the the time I reached Montmartre for a walking tour on my last night in the city. But Montmartre is something all it’s own. I was raining again when I stepped out of the metro station and it was colder than the night before. I decided I was not quite as tough this evening so dug into my bag for my huge plastic camping poncho. I realize I looked like a walking garbage bag and quite silly to the locals but I was dry and therefore fairly warm. I was in the neighborhood to try out a “free” walking tour from Sandeman’s and hoped that I would not be the only one. It turned out that the word free draws many people, even in the rain and the group was split into 2 groups of about 15 or so. In my group I discovered a man and woman who had been on the previous night’s bike tour and, being in a bit of a better mood, I enjoyed the company. Now one must realize that I am a theatre student as well as the daughter of an art teacher so to be in the neighborhood of the Moulin Rouge and also artists such as Picasso and Van Gogh was a neat experience. The guide was fantastic and told great stories and histories about the places we stopped. I have pictures of the house where Van Gogh lived with his brother Theo during his “blue period” and saw the window of the apartment containing “The Blue Room”. I also saw “Rue de L’Abreuvoir” “La Maison Rose”, “Au Lapin Agile”, “Le Bateau Lavoir” and other haunts of well known artists. The Scare-Coeur Basilica tops this lovely hill with its narrow winding streets of brick and stone and though it is relatively new, it is unique and impressive in its architecture and absolutely breathtaking inside. The atmosphere is quiet, reverent, and weighted with emotion; a very moving experience if you allow it. By the end of the tour the rain had cleared and the evening was rather nice. I was disappointed the walk was over because I had enjoyed the place so much. Some streets were quiet and contemplative and others were full of cafes and shops and people. I think it’s a little sad that it has lost much of its bohemian charm to tourism and wealthy people but it remains a beautiful places tucked away just north of the main city of Paris.

When the tour was over I was not ready to leave and was disappointed with the prospect of being alone again. I wished for some company and was thrilled to accept an invitation to walk and then dine with the couple I had met on the bike tour and again on this walking tour. I was missing my parents a great deal since the tour had reminded me so much of both of them and I knew they would enjoy this place with me so the company of some adults was quite welcome. I intended just follow where they went but as we were seeking a recommended cafe I saw a very small fondue place that had laughter and fun spilling out of the door. I was curious and since the recommended place had not been found, my new friends decided it looked like fun. I don’t think any of us realized the adventure we had gotten ourselves into. The room was very small with long wooden benches along the two parallel walls and tables lined up side to side in front of them. In order to sit, one had to step on a chair, straddle the table and slide down onto the bench. The room was already more than half full of people packed very tightly together so that it was with a delicate art that the men serving navigated between the two rows of tables. The Susan and I were guided over the table and directed to sit very close to the people next to us so that there was no wasted space. It was not long before we were closed in on the other side as well! In this place there is one menu and the price includes a sort of appetizer plate, your choice of beef and hot oil to cook it in or bread and fondue, a before dinner drink, and white or red wine. Now in order to fully understand the atmosphere, you must understand that everyone is sitting closer than family the walls were painted black and covered with signatures and messages from hundreds of people who had been there. Other people were at the door trying to get in but shortly after we had gotten there the place had filled to overflowing. Everyone was talking and laughing and you were in such close company that your neighbors soon became friends. The place was made to create a big family. Also unique to this place was the wine; it was served in baby bottles, rubber nipples and all! We asked why this was and our answer was “we don’t know, we have done it for 40 years”! So we are squished between to young American girls on vacation from USC and a very, very lively group of French locals who had obviously been there before. There was harmonica music at one point and spontaneous applause from all in the cafe. The man just beside Susan knew the man who was serving and was teasing him the entire time. What an experience! I have to admit I’ve never had so much fun in a place in my life. It was the perfect answer to my desire for a less tourist experience and for some English speaking company. I talked with the young ladies next to me and to my new friends and also, haltingly, to the French men on the other side. It was fabulous! I was blessed to be treated to my dinner by Susan and her husband and I don’t think I could have been more grateful. I left feeling overwhelmed by a sense of adventure and independence, though I was certainly feeling the wine just a bit as well.

It happens every so often that I become so overwhelmed with a feeling or more than one that I have a very difficult time expressing myself and the rush of it all makes me a complete mess. I want to laugh and cry at the same time, I can’t smile big enough, and my body wants to both run and sit in one place. This was how I felt by the end of the meal. So much more had been satisfied than my physical hunger. I felt fulfilled in my craving for company yet I still felt independent and not as though I had to please other people or be what they wanted in order to be happy. I found that loneliness can be enjoyed when it is contrasted by a time of meaningful companionship and company. Being the people pleasing person than I am, a reminder of this is always refreshing and the experience, invigorating.

The evening ended with my somewhat nervous return to the hostel as it had gotten dark by the time we left the cafe. I grabbed my computer in order to take advantage of the free internet in the bar below the hostel and was greeted by a group of students who invited me to join them, since all the tables were taken. Again I found myself in good company and having a great time. I spent just a couple more hours with this group of people, mostly Americans from Kansas. And fell into bed exhausted at the end of the night. I couldn’t believe how the day had gone and was unwilling to leave in the morning for Amsterdam. But leave, I must; however, I will go back!