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Cambridge (population 100,000), 87km north of London, can hardly be spoken of without reference to Oxford - so much so that the term Oxbridge is used to cover them both. The two cities are not just ancient and beautiful university towns; they embody preconceptions and prejudices that are almost mythical in dimension. An Oxbridge graduate is popularly characterized as male, public-school educated, intelligent and upper class. It can be both abusive and admiring: for some it means academic excellence, for others it denotes an elitist club whose members unfairly dominate many aspects of British life.
Cambridge University is the newer of the two, probably beginning some time early in the 13th century, perhaps a century later than Oxford. There is a fierce rivalry between the two cities and the two universities, and a futile debate over which is best and most beautiful. Oxford draws many more tourists than Cambridge. Partly because of this, if you only have time for one and the colleges are open, choose Cambridge. If the colleges are closed, choose Oxford.
Cambridge can easily be visited as a day trip from London or en route to the North. If you are seriously interested in architecture, however, you will need considerably more than a day.
Orientation
The bus station is in the centre of town, which lies on a wide bend of the River Cam. The train station is a 20-minute walk to the south. Sidney St is the main shopping street. The most important group of colleges (including King's) and the Backs (the meadows adjoining the Cam) are to the west of Sidney St, which changes its name many times.
The TIC (322640), Wheeler St, organises walking tours daily at 1.30 pm, with more in summer. Buy your ticket in advance (£7 including King's College, £6 including St John's). The TIC is closed on Sunday in the off season. CB1 (576306), an Internet cafe on Mill Rd, is open to 8 pm daily.
College Opening Times
The university has three eight-week terms: Michaelmas (October to December), Lent (mid-January to mid-March) and Easter (mid-April to mid-June). Exams are held from mid-May to mid-June. Most colleges are closed to visitors for the Easter term, and all are closed for exams. Contact the TIC for up-to-date information.
Things to See & Do
Starting at Magdalene Bridge walk south down Bridge St until you can see the unmistakable Round Church, one of only four surviving medieval round churches. Turn right down St John's St, which is named in honour of St John's College.
Next door, Trinity College is one of the largest and most attractive. It was established in 1546 by Henry VIII. Its Great Court, Cambridge's largest enclosed court, incorporates buildings from the 15th century. Beyond Great Court is Nevile's Court, with one of Cambridge's most important buildings on its western side: Sir Christopher Wren's library, built in the 1680s.
Next comes Caius College (pronounced 'keys'), and then King's College (331100) and its famous chapel, one of Europe's greatest buildings. The chapel was begun in 1446 by Henry VI, but was not completed until 1545. It comes alive when the choir sings; even the most pagan heavy-metal fan will find choral evensong an extraordinary experience. Entry is £3.50/2.25.
Continue south on what is now King's Parade and turn right into Silver St (St Catherine's College is on the corner) which takes you down to the Cam and the hiring point for punts. Punting along the Backs is sublime, but it can also be a wet and hectic experience, especially on a busy weekend. Cheapest is Trinity Punts (£6 per hour); Scudamore's rents punts for £11 from the Silver St branch, £9 from the Magdalene Bridge branch. Punting the 4.8km upriver to the idyllic village of Grantchester makes a great day out. Punts hold up to six people; deposits of £50 are required.
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