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Copenhagen (Danish: Kobenhavn) is Scandinavia's largest and liveliest city, with a population of 1.5 million. Founded in 1167, it became the capital of Denmark in the early 15th century. Copenhagen is largely a low-rise city, with block after block of historic six-storey buildings. The city has an active nightlife that rolls into the early hours of the morning, and for sightseers there's a treasure trove of museums, castles and old churches to explore.
Orientation
Central Station (Hovedbanegarden or Kobenhavn H), the main train station, is flanked on the west by the main hotel zone and on the east by Tivoli amusement park. At the northern corner of Tivoli is Radhuspladsen, a central city square and the main bus transit point.
The Stroget pedestrian mall runs through the centre between Radhuspladsen and Kongens Nytorv, at the head of the Nyhavn canal. Stroget is made up of five continuous streets: Frederiksberggade, Nygade, Vimmelskaftet, Amagertorv and Ostergade. Other pedestrian streets run north from Stroget in a triangular pattern to the Latin Quarter, a popular student haunt.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
No trip to Copenhagen is complete without a visit to Tivoli and a stroll down Stroget. The most outstanding museums are Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek and Nationalmuseet.
City Centre
From the Radhus (town hall) walk down Stroget, which after a couple of blocks cuts between two squares, Gammel Torv and Nytorv. The former is one of Copenhagen's most popular hang-outs.
At the eastern end of Stroget is Kongens Nytorv, a square surrounded by gracious old buildings including the Royal Theatre, home of the Royal Danish Ballet, and Charlottenborg, a 17th-century Dutch baroque palace housing the Royal Academy of Arts. The academy's rear building has changing exhibits of contemporary art (20kr).
Amalienborg Palace, home of the royal family since 1794, comprises four almost identical rococo mansions surrounding a central square that's the scene of a ceremonial noontime changing of the guard. You can visit the north-west mansion, featuring royal memorabilia and the study rooms of three kings (40kr).
Continue north along Amaliegade to Churchillparken, where you'll find Frihedsmuseet, which depicts the history of Danish Resistance against Nazi occupation (closed Monday; free).
It's a 10-minute walk past the immense Cefion Fountain and through the park to the statue of the famed Little Mermaid (Den Lille Havfrue), a diminutive bronze with an industrial harbour backdrop that tends to disappoint all but the most steadfast Hans Christian Andersen fans.
Latin Quarter
Ascend the stairs of the University Library (enter from Fiolstrade) to see one quirky remnant of the 1807 British bombardment of Copenhagen: a cannonball and the target it hit, a book titled Defensor Pads (Defender of Peace).
Opposite the university is Vor Frue Kirke, Copenhagen's neoclassical cathedral, housing the most acclaimed works of Bertel Thorvaldsen, his statues of Christ and the 12 apostles.
At the north side of the Latin Quarter is Kultorvet, a lively square with beer gardens, flower stalls and produce stands. The nearby Rundetarn (Round Tower) is the best vantage point for viewing the old city's red-tiled rooftops and church spires (closed Sunday morning; 15kr).
To the north, Rosenborg Slot is a 17th-century castle built by Christian IV in Dutch Renaissance style. The dazzling collection of crown jewels is the main attraction of the castle (50kr).
Slotsholmen
On an island separated from the city centre by a moat-like canal, Slotsholmen is the site of Christiansborg Palace and the seat of Denmark's national government. Of the numerous sites to explore, grandest is the Royal Reception Chambers, the ornate Renaissance hall where the queen entertains other heads of state. Tours in English (40kr) are at 11 am and 1 and 3 pm daily. Other sights include Thorvaldsens Museum, with sculptures by Bertel Thorvaldsen; the partially excavated Ruins of Absalon's Fortress; and the Museum of Royal Coaches.
Christianshavn
In 1971 an abandoned military camp on the east side of Christianshavn was taken over by squatters who proclaimed it the 'free state' of Christiania. About 1000 people settled into Christiania, starting their own collective businesses and schools. Visitors are welcome to stroll through car-free Christiania. Photography is frowned upon, and outright forbidden on Pusherstreet where hashish is openly (though not legally) smoked and sold. Guided tours (meet inside the entrance on Prinsessegade; 25kr) are given at noon and 3 pm daily in summer.
To reach Christianshavn, walk over the bridge from the north-east side of Slotsholmen or take bus No 8 from Radhuspladsen.
Tivoli
Right in the heart of the city, Tivoli is Copenhagen's century-old amusement park and a mishmash of gardens, food pavilions, amusement rides and stage shows. Fireworks light up the skies at 11.45 pm on Wednesday and Saturday. Tivoli is open 11 am to midnight daily from mid-April to late September. Entry is 49kr.
Museums
The Nationalmuseet (National Museum), Ny Vestergade 10, holds the world's most extensive collection of Danish artefacts from the Palaeolithic period to the 19th century (closed Monday; 40kr, free Wednesday).
Statens Museum for Kunst, Denmark's substantial national gallery at Solvgade 48, contains work by 19th-century Danish masters and European artists including Matisse, Picasso and Munch (closed Monday; 40kr, free Wednesday).
The superb Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek on HC Andersens Boulevard near Tivoli has an exceptional collection of Greek, Egyptian, Etruscan and Roman sculpture; a wing of paintings by Gauguin, Monet and Van Gogh and a complete set of Degas bronzes (closed Monday; 30kr, free Wednesday and Sunday).
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