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Denmark Zealand Hostels, Eurail Passes, and Backpacking Tips |
Considering its proximity to Copenhagen, the northern part of Zealand (Danish: Sjaslland) is surprisingly rural, with small farms and beech woodlands. One of the most popular day trips from Copenhagen is a loop tour taking in Frederiksborg Castle in Hillerod and Kronborg Castle in Helsingor, possibly with a stop at Fredensborg Palace in between.
Frederiksborg Castle
Hillerod, 30km north of Copenhagen, is the site of Frederiksborg Slot, an impressive Dutch Renaissance castle spread across three islands. The oldest part of the castle dates from Frederik II's time, though most of the present structure was built by his son Christian IV in the early 1600s.
The sprawling castle has a magnificent interior with wall-sized tapestries, gilded ceilings, royal paintings and antiques. It's open 10 am to 5 pm daily (to 3 pm from November to March); entry is 45kr.
Fredensborg Palace
Fredensborg, the royal family's summer residence, is an 18th-century Italianate mansion in the midst of formal gardens. Although the palace is not a must-see, the palace grounds, which border Denmark's second largest lake, make for pleasant walking. The palace interior can only be visited during July, from 1 to 5 pm (30kr).
HELSINGOR
Helsingor (Elsinor) is a busy port town, with ferries shuttling across the Oresund strait to and from Sweden 24 hours a day. The tourist office (49 21 13 33), Havnepladsen 3, is opposite the train station.
Helsingor's top sight is Kronborg Castle, made famous as the Elsinore Castle in Shakespeare's Hamlet (closed Monday in winter). You can cross the moat and walk around the courtyard for free; tour the chapel, dungeons and royal quarters for 30kr; or get a combined ticket that includes the Danish Maritime Museum for 45kr.
The castle is on the north side of the harbour; the best way to get there is to walk past the tourist office up Brostrasde and along historic Sankt Anna Gade.
ROSKILDE
Roskilde, Denmark's original capital, was a thriving trade centre throughout the Middle Ages. It was also the site of Zealand's First Christian church, which was built by Viking king Harald Bluetooth in AD 980. Today it's a likeable, low-profile town worthy of a day trip from Copenhagen, from where there are frequent trains (42kr, 25 minutes).
Northern Europe's largest music festival rocks Roskilde each summer during the last weekend in June. The Roskilde tourist office (46 35 27 00) is at Gullandsstrajde 15.
Things to See & Do
Roskilde Domkirke
Although most of Roskilde's medieval buildings vanished in fires over the centuries, the imposing cathedral still dominates the city centre. The cathedral has tall spires, a splendid interior and the crypts of 37 Danish monarchs. Take note of the 16th-century clock above the entrance, where a tiny St George on horseback marks the hour by slaying a yelping dragon. Entry is 12kr. The cathedral sometimes closes for weddings and funerals; check in advance by calling the tourist office.
Other City Sights
From the north side of the cathedral, walk across a field where wildflowers blanket the unexcavated remains of Roskilde's original medieval town, continuing through a green belt all the way down to the Viking Ship Museum. This well-presented museum (52kr) contains five reconstructed Viking ships (circa AD 1000) excavated from the bottom of Roskilde Fjord in 1962; the harbourside grounds have workshops replicating Viking ships.
A short walk west along the harbour leads to the Sankt Jorgensbjerg quarter, where the cobbled walkway Kirkegade goes through a neighbourhood of old straw-roofed houses and into the courtyard of the 11th-century church, Sankt Jorgensbjerg Kirke.
TRELLEBORG
Trelleborg, in the countryside of southern Zealand, is the best preserved of Denmark's four Viking ring fortresses. The earthen-walled fortress, which dates to AD 980, has two compounds, the inner of which is cut with gates at the four points of the compass. You can walk up onto the grassy circular rampart and readily grasp the fortress' precise geometric design. Cement blocks have been placed to show the outlines of the house foundations and interpretive plaques point out burial mounds and other features. At Trelleborg's entrance there are a few replicated Viking buildings, including a Viking longhouse. Entry to the site is 35kr.
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