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Dublin
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Dublin (Baile Atha Cliath) is Ireland's capital and largest, most cosmopolitan city (population 952,700). Dublin is growing at furious pace; the city centre is an intricate ass of shops, restaurants, pubs and people, Cybercafes and world-class restaurants now / happily next to smoky pubs and chop-houses. And in spite of rapid changes, Dublin mains a city of character and characters.
Orientation
North of the river, O'Connell St is the major shopping thoroughfare. Immediately south of the river is the often-raucous Temple Bar district, Dame St, Trinity College and St Stephen's Green. For shopping, the pedestrianised Grafton St and its surrounding streets and lanes are always busy.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Trinity College & Book of Kells
Ireland's premier university was founded by Elizabeth I in 1592. In summer, walking tours depart regularly from the main gate on College Green; 9.30 am to 4.30 pm Monday to Saturday and noon to 4 pm Sunday. The tour costs 8 €, which includes the fee to see the Book of Kells, an illuminated manuscript dating from around AD 800, and one of Dublin's prime attractions. It's on display in the East Pavilion of the Colonnades (6 €).
Museums & Galleries
The highlight of the exhibits at the National Museum, on Kildare St, is the Treasury, with its superb collection of Bronze Age, Iron Age and medieval gold objects. Other exhibits focus on the 1916 Easter Rising and the struggle for Irish independence (closed Monday; free).
The small Dublin Civic Museum, 58 William St South, focuses on Dublin's long and tumultuous history (closed Monday; free).
Dublin Writers Museum, 18-19 Parnell Square, celebrates the city's long and continuing role as a literary centre, with displays on Joyce, Swift, Yeats, Wilde, Beckett and others (4 €).
Almost next-door, Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery has works by contemporary Irish artists, as well as retrospectives and a large Impressionist collection (closed Monday; free).
The National Gallery, Merrion Square West, has an excellent collection with strong Irish content. It is open daily, and there are guided tours on Saturday (3 pm) and Sunday (2.15, 3 and 4 pm). Entry is free.
The Irish Museum of Modern Art (IMMA) at the old Royal Hospital Kilmain-ham, is renowned for its conceptual installations and temporary exhibits (closed Monday; free).
In Temple Bar, around Meeting House Square, are the National Photographic Archive and the Gallery of Photography. In fact, in and around Meeting House square is a cauldron of cultural activities, including the Irish Film Archive, the multimedia centre Arthouse, contemporary galleries and studios. For information call the Temple Bar Culture Line (671 5717).
Christ Church Cathedral & Around
In the south aisle, Christ Church Cathedral (1169) has a monument to the 12th-century Norman warrior Strongbow. Note the church's precariously leaning north wall (it's been that way since 1562). Open 10 am to 5 pm daily (3 €).
On Essex St West is Dublin's Viking Adventure where costumed 'Norse' guides lead visitors through life-size mock-ups of Viking-era Dublin. The adventure is open 10 am to 4.30 pm Tuesday to Saturday (6 €).
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