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Edinburgh (population 409,000) has an incomparable location, superb architecture (16,000 of the city's buildings are listed as architecturally or historically important), excellent pubs and one of Britain's most dramatic castles. In some ways, however, Edinburgh is the least Scottish of Scotland's cities - partly because of the impact of tourism, partly because of its closeness to England, and partly because of its multicultural and sophisticated population.
The royal capital since the 11th century, all the great dramas of Scottish history played at least one act in Edinburgh. Even after the union of 1707 it remained the centre for government administration (now the Scottish Executive). With devolution and the location of the new Scottish Parliament in Edinburgh, the city once again wields real political power.
Orientation
The most important landmark is Arthur's Seat, the 251m rocky peak south-east of the city. The Old and New Towns are separated by the Princes St Gardens and Waverley 'rain station. The bus station is in the New Town, just off the north-eastern corner of St Andrew Square. Princes St runs west from Lalton Hill, which is crowned by several monuments. The Royal Mile (Lawnmarket) is the parallel equivalent in the Old Town.
Information
The busy main TIC (557 1700), Waverley Market, 3 Princes St, opens daily year round. There's also a branch at Edinburgh airport (338 2167). Both have Scotland-wide information, and sell the useful Essential Guide to Edinburgh (£1). Accommodation brochures are free, but it costs £3 to make a booking. Check out the Tourist Board's Web site at www.edinburgh.org.
American Express (225 7881) is at 139 Princes St. Thomas Cook (465 7700) is at 26-28 Frederick St. Both close Sunday.
Web 13 Internet Cafe (229 8883), 13 Bread St, offers online access for £5 per hour as does Cyberia (220 4403), 88 Hanover St. Both open daily.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Stunning Edinburgh Castle (225 9846) has excellent views of central Edinburgh. The castle is the headquarters of the British army's Scottish Division. The smallest, oldest building is St Margaret's Chapel, built in the 12th century. The castle was the seat of Scottish kings, and the royal apartments include the tiny room where Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to the boy who became King James VI of Scotland and James I of England. You can also see the Stone of Destiny, returned to Scotland in 1996. It's open 9.30 am to 6 pm daily (to 5 pm October to March); admission is £7.
The castle is at the west end of the Royal Mile, which runs down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. The streetscape is an extraordinary collage of 16th- and 17th-century architecture. On the left, Gladstone's Land (closed November to March) and The Writers' Museum (Lady Stair's House) are town houses that give insights into urban life of the past.
Turn right onto the George IV Bridge, which crosses Cowgate (an ancient street). Grassmarket, below and to the right, has a number of pubs and restaurants. Continue to the angled intersection with Candlemaker Row and Greyfriars Kirk (where the National Covenant was signed) with its beautiful old churchyard.
Return to the Royal Mile and turn right past the 15th-century St Giles' Cathedral. At the cathedral's rear is Parliament House, now the seat of Scotland's supreme law courts. Immediately east of St Giles stands the Mercat Cross, where public proclamations were once made.
Continue down the Royal Mile over North/South Bridge to the free Museum of Childhood, with a fascinating collection of toys, and John Knox's House (closed Sunday, £2.25), home to the fiery leader of the Scottish Reformation.
At the eastern end of the Royal Mile, the Palace of Holyroodhouse is a Stuart palace mostly dating from 1671. Holyroodhouse is the official Scottish residence of the British royal family. Although you're carefully shepherded through a limited part of the palace, it has a certain fascination. It's open daily April to October except when the Queen is in residence (usually around mid-May or mid-June). Admission is £6.
Close to Holyroodhouse, the new Scottish Parliament is under construction. Opposite is the Dynamic Earth exhibition on the planet's geology and natural history, open daily Easter to October, Wednesday to Sunday the rest of the year (£6.95).
From the palace, turn right and climb Abbey Hill (under the railway overpass). Turn left into Regent Rd, which leads back to Princes St. On the right you pass Calton Hill - worth climbing for its superb views across to the castle.
If you're a little thirsty at this stage, Rose St to the west is famous for its pubs. From there, continue west to Charlotte Square; on its northern side at No 7 is Robert Adam's masterpiece, the Georgian House, restored to its full 18th-century glory. It's open April to October daily (closed Sunday morning, £5).
Special Events
The Edinburgh International Festival, held each year in mid-August, is the world's largest, most important arts festival. The Fringe Festival grew alongside it, presenting would-be future stars. Just to make sure that every bed within 50km is full, the Edinburgh Military Tattoo is held at the same time.
To attend the International Festival you must book ahead. The program, published in April, is available from the Edinburgh Festival Office (473 2000), The Hub, Castlehill, Royal Mile, EH1 2NE, or on their Web site at www.eif.co.uk. The Fringe Festival is less formal, and many performances have seats available at the last minute. Programs are available from the Festival Fringe Society (226 5257), 180 High St EH1 1QS, or on the Web site at www.edfringe.com.
Hogmanay, the Scottish celebration of the New Year, is another major Edinburgh fixture - book accommodation well ahead if you want to be part of the fun.
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