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Glasgow, with a population of nearly 620,000, is one of Britain's largest, most interesting cities. Though it's not as instantly attractive as Edinburgh, Glasgow has some fine Georgian and Victorian architecture, and a vibrancy and energy that's lacking in more staid Edinburgh.
Glasgow is the most Scottish of cities - a unique blend of friendliness, urban chaos and black humour. There are some excellent art galleries and museums (most free), good-value restaurants, countless pubs and a lively arts scene.
Orientation
The city centre is built on a grid system on the northern side of the River Clyde. The two train stations (Central and Queen St) and Buchanan bus station are within a few blocks of George Square, the main city square. The TIC is on George Square.
Sauchiehall St, running east-west along a ridge in the northern part of the city, has a pedestrian mall with shops at its eastern end, and pubs and restaurants to the west.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Most of Glasgow's museums are free and open 10 am to 5 pm daily.
George Square is surrounded by imposing Victorian architecture, including the post office, the Bank of Scotland and, along its eastern side, the extravagant 19th-century City Chambers, which offers free tours at 10.30 am and 2.30 pm weekdays.
Glasgow Cathedral, begun in 1238, is regarded as a perfect example of pre-Reformation Gothic architecture. St Mungo, Glasgow's 6th-century founder, is buried here. Beside the cathedral, the excellent St Mungo Museum of Religious Life & Art has Dali's Christ of St John of the Cross, statues of the Buddha and Hindu deities, and Britain's only Zen garden.
Glasgow has some superb Art Nouveau buildings designed by Scottish architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh. In particular, check out the Glasgow School of Art at 167 Renfrew St, which has guided tours from Monday to Saturday (£5/3). At 217 Sauchiehall St is the Mackintosh-designed Willow Tearoom.
Tenement House, 145 Buccleuch St, gives an insight into middle-class life 100 years ago (open March to October, £3.50).
The Burrell Collection - from medieval furniture to paintings by Renoir and Cezanne - was amassed by a wealthy local before it was given to the city and housed in a superb museum in Pollok Country Park, 5km south of the centre. Catch a train to Pollokshaws West from Central station, then walk for 10 minutes through the park.
Special Events
The West End Festival (341 0844) of music and the arts runs for two weeks in June and is Glasgow's biggest festival. The excellent International Jazz Festival (400 5000) is held in July.
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