|
Hamburg should be high on your list of German cities to visit. The nightlife is great, the museums are world class, and it has a bustling port. The Reeperbahn, originally a red-light district for sailors, is rather tame these days, whereas the Schanzenviertel has a lively alternative and anarchist student scene.
Hamburg's first settlement (around AD 800), though, was a far cry from anarchism: this was the site of a moated fortress known as Hammaburg. In the 13th century Hamburg became the Hanseatic League's trading gateway to the North Sea and was second in importance only to Liibeck. With the decline of the Hanseatic League in the 16th century, Hamburg thrived as Liibeck sank into (near) oblivion.
In WWII, more than half of Hamburg was flattened and 55,000 people died in Allied air raids that spawned horrific firestorms.
Orientation
The main train station, the Hauptbahnhof, is near Aussenalster lake and close to most sights. The port is west of the city centre, facing the Elbe.
Things to See and Do
Altstadt
The Altstadt is centred on Rathausmarkt. The 647-room Rathaus is one of the most interesting city halls in Germany, and the 40-minute English-language tour is worthwhile at 1 €.
Nearby on Ost-West-Strasse, the lone remaining tower of the St Nikolai Church contains a moving anti-war memorial. The baroque Hauptkirche St Michaelis a few blocks west has sweeping views of the city and port from its tower. The church’s crypt is open for viewing (1 €).
Port
After exploring the Altstadt, stroll down to one of the busiest ports in the world. Port cruises are touristy but still worthwhile. The Fischmarkt (Fish Market), Hamburg’s oldest market (since 1703) and popular with locals and tourists alike, is held on Sunday from 5 to 10 am (from 7 am October to March) in St Pauli, right on the Elbe. Cap a morning visit with a live jazz session at the Fish Auction Hall, Grosse Elbstrasse 9.
Reeperbahn
A lot of sailors had a girl in this western quarter near the port – the Reeperbahn is one of the world’s most famous red-light districts. The 600m-long Reeperbahn is the heart of the St Pauli entertainment district, which includes bars, cabarets, theatres, peep shows, sex shops and a casino.
St Pauli has become tamer in recent years, but if you venture into a peep show or Reeperbahn club, make sure you understand costs before going in; ask for the price list if it’s not posted by the entrance. Many places with shows or other ‘entertainment’ have a minimum purchase (20 € or more) in addition to the admission fee (3 € to 5 €).
On Grosse Freiheit, Safari features live sex shows that are not for faint-hearted. Prostitutes pose in windows along Herbertstrasse, which is fenced off at each end; men under 18 and women are not allowed in.
Other Attractions
Hamburg’s Kunsthalle has old masters and a large collection of German paintings from the 19th and 20th centuries. Contemporary art is housed next door in the modern Galerie der Gegenwart. A join ticket is 8/4 €, and both are closed on Monday.
Herry’s Hamburger Hafen Basar, Bernhard-Nocht-Strasse 89-91 (S-Bahn to Reeperbahn or St Pauli Landungsbrucken), is the life work of Harry, who for decades bought trinkets and souvenirs from sailors and assorted others. Now run by Harry’s daughter, it has a wealth of curiosities – Zulu drums, stuffed giraffes, a shrunken head, etc. Entry is 2 €.
The view from Hamburg’s TV Tower (4 €), Lagerstrasse 2-8, is truly breathtaking. For a real scream, you can bungee jump off the 130m platform (140 €).
|
