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WEXFORD
Little remains of Wexford's Viking past - apart from its narrow streets and name, Waesfjord, or 'Ford of Mud Flats'. Cromwell was in one of his most destructive moods when he included Wexford on his 1649-50 Irish tour, destroying the churches and 'putting to the sword' three-quarters of the town's 2000 inhabitants.
Wexford is a convenient stopover for those travelling to France or Wales via the Rosslare Harbour ferry port, 21km southeast of Wexford.
Things to See & Do
About 5km north-west of Wexford, beside the Dublin-Rosslare (N11) road at Ferry-carrig, the Irish National Heritage Park is an outdoor theme-park condensing Irish history from the Stone Age to the early Norman period. The 14 reconducted sights are animated by a not-to-he-missed free guided tour. Entry is 7 €, and the park opens 9.30 am to 6.30 pm (last admission at 5.30 pm) daily, March to November.
ROSSLARE HARBOUR
Rosslare Harbour has frequent ferry services to France and Wales There is absolutely no reason to linger at Rosslare Harbour, so catch the first bus or train (outside the ferry terminal) to Wexford or elsewhere. If you do stay, An Oige's Rosslare Harbour Hostel (33399) is on Goulding St, across the park at the back of Hotel Rosslare, just uphill from the ferry terminal. Beds in dorms range from 10 € to 12 €.
WATERFORD
Although Waterford (Port Lairge) is a busy port and modern commercial centre, it also retains vestiges of its Viking and Norman past. Strongbow took the city in 1170, and in later centuries it was the most powerful political centre in Ireland.
Today Waterford is famed for its crystal, but it's also a college town, and during the academic year the crowded pubs are plenty of fun.
Waterford Crystal Factory
The first Waterford glass factory was established in 1783 but closed in 1851 as a result of punitive taxes imposed by the British government. The business wasn't revived until 1947.
The visitor centre (33 2500) is 2km south-west out on the road to Cork (N25). A guided tour (5 €) takes you through the factory, where you can see big-cheeked glass blowers and fragile exhibits. Public transport runs from the top of the mall at Broad St to the factory every 10 minutes (2.5 € return). The factory is open 8.30 am to 4 pm daily (shorter hours in the low season).
KILKENNY
Despite the occasional heavy brewery-waft through its main streets, Kilkenny (Cill Chainnigh) is perhaps the most attractive large town in the country. Even though it was ransacked by Cromwell during his 1650 campaign, Kilkenny retains some of its medieval ground-plan, particularly the narrow streets.
Things to See & Do
Overlooking a sweeping bend in the River Nore, stronghold of the powerful Butler family, Kilkenny Castle (21450) has a history dating back to 1172, though the present castle is a more recent structure. The Long Gallery, with its vividly painted ceiling, is quite remarkable. Guided tours are compulsory and cost 4 €. The castle is open 10 am to 7 pm daily in summer; hours are slightly shorter at other times.
The approach on foot to St Canice's Cathedral from Parliament St leads over Irishtown Bridge and up St Canice's Steps, which date from 1614; the wall at the top contains fragmentary medieval carvings. Around the cathedral is a round tower (which you can climb for 1 €).
On Parliament St, Rothe House is a restored Tudor merchant's house dating from 1594 (3 €). Smithwicks Brewery, also on Parliament St, shows a video and has tastings on weekdays at 3 pm from June to September. Free tickets are available at the tourist office.
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