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 From the 15th to 18th centuries, the fabled Loire Valley (Vallee de la Loire) was the playground of kings and nobles who expended vast fortunes to turn it into a neighborhood of lavish chateaux. Today, the region is a favorite destination of tourists seeking the architectural glories of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance.
BLOIS
The medieval town of Blois was a hub of court intrigue between the 15th and 17th centuries, and in the 16th century served as a second capital of France. The old city, seriously damaged by German attacks in 1940, retains its steep, twisting medieval streets. The town's highlight is outstanding Chateau de Blois.
Several of the Loire Valley's most rewarding chateaux, including Chambord and Cheverny, are a pleasant 20km bicycle ride from Blois.
Things to See
Chateau de Blois (02 54 74 16 06) has a bloody history and an extraordinary mixture of architectural styles. Its four distinct sections are early Gothic (13th century); Flamboyant Gothic (1498-1503); early Renaissance (1515-24), from the reign of Francois I; and classical (17th century). The chateau also houses an archaeological museum and the Musee des Beaux-Arts (Museum of Fine Arts), both open 9 am to noon and 2 to 5 pm mid-October to mid-March; and 9 am to 6.30 pm (8 pm in July and August) the rest of the year (6/4 €). The chateau's evening sound-and-light show (60/30FF) runs May to September. If you intend taking in a chateau visit and show, buy a money-saving combination ticket (12/9 €).
Opposite, the Maison de la Magie (House of Magic) has magic shows and displays objects invented by the 19th-century scientist/magician Robert Houdin, after whom the great Houdini named himself (8/7 €).
Large brown explanatory signs in English pinpoint tourist sights around the predominantly pedestrian-only old city. Cathedrale St-Louis is named after Louis XIV, who had it rebuilt after a hurricane in 1678. There's a great view of Blois and the River Loire from the lovely Jardins de I'Eveche (Gardens of the Bishop's Palace), behind the cathedral.
The 15th-century Maison des Acrobates (House of Acrobats), 3bis rue Pierre de Blois, is one of Blois' few medieval houses to survive the bombings of WWII. It is named after the cheeky characters carved in its timbers.
BLOIS AREA CHATEAUX
Blois is surrounded by some of the Loire Valley’s finest chateaux which languish in countryside perfect for cycling. Chambord, Cheverny and Chaumont are each about 20km from Blois. Chateau de Chambord
Chateau de Chambord (02 54 50 50 02), begun in 1519 by Francois I (1515-47), is the largest and most-visited chateau in the Loire Valley. Its Renaissance architecture and decoration, grafted onto a feudal ground plan, may have been inspired by Leonardo da Vinci who, at the invitation of Francois I, lived in Amboise (45km south-west) from 1516 until his death three years later.
The chateau's famed double-helix staircase, attributed by some to Leonardo, consists of two spiral staircases that wind around the same central axis but never meet. Tickets to the 440-room chateau are sold from 9.30 am to 4.45 pm July and August; 9.30 am to 5.45 pm April to June and September; and 9.30 am to 4.45 pm October to March. Visitors already in the chateau can stay for 45 minutes after ticket sales end (7/4 €).
From mid-July to mid-October, Chambord hosts a light show every night. Tickets are sold from 10.30 pm until midnight in July, 10 to 11.30 pm in August, and 8.30 to 9.30 and 10 pm September to mid-October (15/8 €). Tickets covering show and chateau are available (18/10 €).
Chateau de Cheverny
Privately owned Chateau de Cheverny (02 54 79 96 29), the most magnificently furnished of the Loire Valley chateaux, was completed in 1634. Visitors are treated to room after sumptuous room outfitted with the finest canopied beds, tapestries, paintings, painted ceilings and walls covered with embossed Cordoba leather. Three dozen panels illustrate the story of Don Quixote in the 1st-floor dining room. In the grounds, near the lake, is a balloon pad where you can take to the skies in a hot-air balloon from mid-March to mid-October (8/7 €).
Cheverny (02 54 79 96 29) opens 9.15 or 9.30 am to 6.15 pm (6.30 pm July and August) April to September; and 9.15 or 9.30 am to noon and 2.15 to 5.30 pm (5 pm November to February) the rest of the year (6/4 €).
Chateau de Chaumont
Chateau de Chaumont (02 54 51 26 26), set on a bluff overlooking the River Loire, resembles a feudal castle. Its luxurious stables are its most famous feature; also note the Salle du Conseil (Council Chamber) on the 1st floor, with its majolica tile floor and tapestries, and Catherine de' Medici's bedroom overlooking the chapel. Tickets are sold 9.30 am to 6 pm mid-March to September; 10 am to 4.30 pm the rest of the year (6 €).
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