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At times Europe's largest city is more grand, beautiful and stimulating than you could have imagined; at others it is colder, greyer, dirtier and more expensive than you believed possible.
London is a cosmopolitan mix of the developed and developing worlds, of chauffeurs and beggars, of the establishment and the avant-garde, with seven to 12 million inhabitants (depending on where you stop counting) and 26 million visitors a year.
For the budget traveller, London is a challenge. Money has a way of mysteriously evaporating every time you move. With limited funds it's necessary to plan, book ahead and prioritise. And remember - there's little point in putting up with London's crowds, the pollution and the often dreary weather if you can't take advantage of at least some of London's theatres, exhibitions, pubs, clubs, cafes and restaurants. Fortunately, some of the very best -including most of the major museums - remain free or very cheap.
Orientation
'London' is an imprecise term used loosely to describe over 2000 sq km of Greater London enclosed by the M25 ring road. The city's main geographical feature is the Thames, a tidal river that flows from west to east and divides the city into northern and southern halves.
Though London sprawls over an enormous area, the Underground system (the 'tube') makes most of it easily accessible. All the international airports lie some distance from the city centre but transport is easy.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Walking Tour
The centre of London can easily be explored on foot. The following tour could be covered in a day but doesn't allow time to explore the individual sights in detail; it will, however, introduce you to the West End, the South Bank and Westminster.
Start at St Paul's Cathedral, Christopher Wren's masterpiece completed in 1710 (tube: St Paul's). Entry costs £5, which gains you access to the cathedral plus the dome and crypt.
From the cathedral, walk down to the Thames. Here you should be able to cross on the new Millennium Bridge directly to the Tate Modern. Housed in the huge old Bank-side Power Station, this is the new home for the Tate's collection of modern art.
Walk west along the river past the many attractions of the South Bank Centre and stop when you reach the British Airways London Eye. At 135m it is the world's tallest observation wheel and on a rare clear day you can see 40 miles. It's very popular whatever the weather and you best book your ride in advance (0870-500 0600). Tickets cost £7.45 and some are held back for same-day sale, but beware of the crowds.
Cross the Hungerford Bridge, which is getting new walkways, cut through Charing Cross Station and walk east along the Strand to Southhampton St and head north to Covent Garden piazza. Once London's fruit and vegetable market, these days it has been turned into a bustling tourist attraction. It's one of the few places in London where pedestrians rule, and you can watch the buskers for a few coins and the tourists for free.
Leave the piazza walking west on Long Acre (look for Stanfords bookshop on your left). Continue across Charing Cross Rd to Leicester Square with its cinemas and franchise food. Note the Leicester Square Half-Price Ticket Booth, which sells half-price theatre tickets on the day of performance.
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