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Oslo, the oldest of Scandinavia's capitals, was founded in 1050 by Harald Hardrada. After being levelled by fire in 1624, the city was rebuilt in brick and stone by King Christian IV, who renamed it Christiania, a name that stuck until 1925 when Oslo took back its original name.
Despite being Norway's largest city, Oslo (population 500,000) is remarkably low-key, casual and manageable. The city centre is a pleasant jumble of old and new architecture. Oslo has good museums, plenty of parks and an abundance of statues.
Orientation
From Oslo's central train station (Oslo Sentralstasjon, also Oslo S), Karl Johans gate, the main street, leads through the heart of the city to the Royal Palace. Most central city sights, including the harbour district and Akershus Fortress, are within a 15-minute walk of Karl Johans gate, as are the majority of Oslo's hotels and pensions.
Things to See and Do
Oslo's highlights include the Bygdoy Peninsula with its folk museum and Viking ships; Vigeland Park, which features the sculptures of Gustav Vigeland; and Akershus Fortress with its castle and harbour views.
Karl Johans gate
Along Oslo's main pedestrian street, Karl Johans gate, you'll find Stortinget, the nation's parliament building; Eidsvollsplass, a city square filled with fountains and statues; the century-old National Theatre; and the Royal Palace, which is surrounded by a large public park.
Radhus
Oslo's twin-towered, red-brick city hall, opposite the harbour, has showy wall murals decorating the interior. You can view the main hall from the front corridor or, for 25kr, walk through it all.
National Gallery
The free Nasjonalgalleriet, Universitetsgata 13, has the nation's largest collection of Norwegian art. Some of Munch's best known works are on display, including the iconic Scream. There are also works by Gauguin, Monet and Picasso (closed Tuesday).
Historic Museum
The free Historisk Museum at Frederiks gate 2 comprises three museums under a single roof. Most interesting is the ground floor antiquities collection with its exceptional displays of Viking-era coins, jewellery and ornaments. The 2nd-floor has a numismatic collection of coins dating from 995, while the top floor holds the ethnographical collection with displays on non-European cultures (closed Monday).
Akershus Fortress
This medieval fortress and castle was built by King Hakon V around 1300. The park-like grounds, which offer excellent views of the city and Oslofjord, are the venue for a host of concerts in summer. Entry into the fortress (free) is either through a gate at the end of Akersgata or over a drawbridge at the southern end of Kirkegata. The fortress grounds are open 6 am to 9 pm; after 6 pm use the Kirkegata entrance.
In the 17th century, Christian IV renovated Akershus Castle (20kr) into a Renaissance palace, though the front is still decidedly medieval. Its chapel is still used for royal events, and the crypts of kings Hakon VII and Olav V lie beneath it. Tours in English at 11 am, 1 and 3 pm, led by university students in period costume, provide a good anecdotal history, or you can wander through on your own.
During WWII the Nazis used Akershus as a prison and execution grounds; today it is the site of Norway's Resistance Museum (25kr).
National Museum of Contemporary Art
This museum at Bankplassen 4 features Scandinavian modern art (closed Monday; 40kr, free Thursday). A block to the east is the Astrup Fearnley Museet, which has quality, changing exhibits of Norwegian and foreign modern art (closed Monday; 40kr).
Munch Museum
Dedicated to the life and work of Norway's most renowned artist, Edvard Munch (1863-1944), this museum at Toyengata 53 is the repository for some 5000 drawings and paintings that Munch bequeathed to the city of Oslo (50kr). Take the T-bane (metro) to Toyen, from where it's a five-minute, signposted walk.
Vigeland Park
Frognerparken, or Vigeland Park, is a wonderful city park with expansive green spaces, duck ponds and rows of shady trees. Its central walkway is lined with life-sized statues by Gustav Vigeland. The most impressive piece is the monolith of writhing bodies, said to be the world's largest granite sculpture. The park is free and always open. To get there take tram No 12 or 15 from Jernbanetorget or the National Theatre.
For a more in-depth look at Gustav Vigeland and his work, head across the park to the Vigeland Museum at Nobels gate 32 (closed Monday; 30kr).
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