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The city of Plzen (Pilsen; population 173,000), halfway between Prague and Nuremberg, is the capital of West Bohemia. Beer has been brewed at Plzen for 700 years and the town is famous as the original home of Pilsner. Plzen has sights enough to keep you busy for a day and devoted beer drinkers will not regret the pilgrimage.
Orientation
The main train station, Plzen hlavni nadrazi, is on the east side of town. The central bus station is west of the centre on Husova, opposite the Skoda factory. Between these is the old town, which is centred around namesti Republiky. Tram No 2 travels from the train station to the centre of town and on to the bus station.
Things to See
The Gothic St Bartholomew Church in the middle of namesti Republiky has the highest tower (102m) in Bohemia; you can climb it daily for 20 Kc.
Plzen's most interesting sight by far is the Brewery Museum at Veleslavinova 6, northeast of namesti Republiky. The museum (in an authentic medieval malt house) displays a fascinating collection of brewing-related artefacts; entry is 40 Kc. If all that reading makes you thirsty, visit the Pivnice Na Parkanu behind the museum.
Just around the corner at Perlova 4 is an entrance to Plzen's fascinating medieval underground corridors (Plzenske historicke podzemi), which stretch for 9km below the town. They were originally built as refuges during sieges. Tours (minimum five people) are offered Tuesday to Sunday.
The famous Pilsner Urquell Brewery is a 10-minute walk from the underground corridors, just north of Plzen's main train station. A one-hour tour (from 30 Kc) of the brewing room and fermentation cellar is held at 12.30 pm weekdays.
Places to Stay
Camping
The camping ground Oestende (52 01 94, Mali Bolevec 41) in Bfla Hora is 5km north of the city (take bus No 20). It also has bungalows and is open May to mid-September.
Hostels
Sou H (738 20 12, Vejprnickd 56) is a year-round ubytovna (hostel) about 3km west of town but easily accessible on tram No 2 (direction: Skvrnany) from the train or bus station. Beds are 240 Kc per person.
Pensions & Hotels
A fine old hotel is Hotel Slovan (722 72 56, Smetanovy sady 1), which has singles/doubles for 600/1000 Kc, or 1400/2000 Kc with bath and breakfast included.
The impressive Hotel Continental (723 64 79, Zbrojnickd 8) has rooms starting at 860/1460 Kc with shower but no toilet, or 1492/2150 KC with both, buffet breakfast included.
Pension Barova (723 66 52, Solnf 8), in a town house just off namesti Republiky, has three attractive rooms with bath for 695/1020 Kc.
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