 Provence was settled by the Ligurians, the Celts and the Greeks, but it was after its conquest by Julius Caesar in the mi-1st century BC that the region really began to flourish. Many exceptionally well-preserved amphitheatres, aqueducts and other buildings from the Roman period can still be seen in Aries and Nimes. During the 14th century, the Catholic church, then led by a series of French-born popes, moved its headquarters from feud-riven Rome to Avignon, thus beginning the most resplendent period in that city's history.
MARSEILLE
The cosmopolitan and much maligned port of Marseille (population 1.23 million), France's second-largest city and third-most populous urban area, is not in the least bit prettified for the benefit of tourists. Its urban geography and atmosphere are a function of the diversity of its inhabitants, the majority of whom are immigrants (or their descendants) from the Mediterranean basin, West Africa and Indochina. Although Marseille is notorious for organized crime and racial tensions, the city is worth exploring for a day or two.
Orientation
The city's main street, La Canebiere, stretches eastward from the Vieux Port. The train station is north of La Canebiere at the top of blvd d'Athenes. The city centre is around rue Paradis, which becomes more fashionable as you move south.
The tourist office (04 91 13 89 00) is next to the Vieux Port at 4 La Canebiere. The annexe (04 91 50 59 18) at the train station opens weekdays only (Monday to Saturday in July and August).
The Le Rezo Cybercafe (04 91 42 70 02), 68 cours Julien, charges 5/8 € for 30 minutes/one hour access and is open 9.30 am to 8 pm Monday, 9.30 am to 10 pm Tuesday to Friday and 10 am to 11 pm Saturday.
Things to See & Do
Marseille grew up around the Vieux Port, where Greeks from Asia Minor established settlement around 600 BC. The quarter north of quai du Port (around the Hotel de Ville) was blown up by the Germans in 1943 and rebuilt after the war. The lively place Thiars pedestrian zone, with its many late-night restaurants and cafes, is south of the quai de Rive Neuve.
Corniche President John F Kennedy runs along the coast from 200m west of the Jardin du Pharo, a park with good harbour views. Along its entire length, the corniche is served by bus No 83, which goes to the quai des Beiges (the old port) and the Rond-Point du Prado metro stop.
If you like great panoramic views or overwrought mid-19th-century architecture, consider a walk up to Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde, on a hill 1km south of the Vieux Port - the city's highest point. Bus No 60 will get you back to the Vieux Port.
Museums
All the museums listed here charge 2 € to 3 € for admission; all admit students for half-price. The 'Passeport pour les musees' (10/6 €) is valid for 15 days and allows unlimited entry to all the city's museums.
The Centre de la Vieille Charite is home to Marseille's Museum of Mediterranean Archaeology and has superb permanent exhibits on ancient Egypt and Greece (closed weekends). It is in the mostly North African ttmier quarter (north of the Vieux Port) at 1 rue de la Charite. The Musee Cantini off rue Paradis, at 19 rue Grignan, has changing exhibitions of modern and contemporary art (closed weekends).
AVIGNON
Avignon (population 85,900) acquired its ramparts and its reputation as a city of art and culture during the 14th century, when Pope Clement V and his court, fleeing political turmoil in Rome, established themselves here. From 1309 to 1377 huge sums of money were invested in building and decorating the popes' palace. Even after the pontifical court returned to Rome amid bitter charges that Avignon had become a den of criminals and brothel-goers, the city remained an important cultural centre.
Today, Avignon maintains its tradition as a patron of the arts, most notably through its annual performing arts festival. The city's other attractions include a bustling (if lightly touristy) walled town and a number of interesting museums, including several across the Rhone in Villeneuve-les-Avignon.
Palais des Papes & Around
Avignon's leading tourist attraction is the fortified Palace of the Popes, built during the 14th century. The seemingly endless halls, chapels, corridors and staircases were once sumptuously decorated, but these days they're nearly empty except for a few damaged frescoes. The palace opens 9 am to 7 pm (9 pm in July and 8 pm in August and September). Entry is 8/6 €, which includes a user-friendly audioguide in English. At the far northern end of place du Palais, the Musee du Petit Palais houses an outstanding collection of 13th- to 16th-century Italian religious paintings (closed Tuesday; 5/3 €). Just up the hill is Rocher des Doms, a park with great views of the Rhone, Pont St Benezet, Villeneuve-les-Avignon and the Alpilles.
Pont St Benezet
This impressive bridge was built in the 12th century to link Avignon with Villeneuve-les-Avignon. Yes, this is the Pont d'Avignon mentioned in the French nursery rhyme. Originally 900m long, the bridge was repaired and rebuilt several times until all but four of its 22 spans were washed away in the 17th century. The bridge is closed Monday; entry is 3/1.5 €.
Museums
Housed in an 18th-century mansion, the Musee Calvet, 65 rue Joseph Vernet, has a collection of ancient Egyptian, Greek and Roman artefacts as well as paintings from the 16th to 20th centuries (6/3 €). Its annexe, the Musee Lapidaire, 27 rue de la Rdpublique, houses sculpture and statuary from the Gallo-Roman, Romanesque and Gothic periods (closed Tuesday; 2 €).
At 17 rue Victor Hugo, the Musee Louis Vouland exhibits a fine collection of faience and some magnificent 18th-century French furniture (closed Sunday and Monday; 3/2 €).
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