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After the unification of Italy, the papal states of central Italy became part of the new kingdom of Italy, causing a considerable rift between church and state. In 1929, Mussolini, under the Lateran Treaty, gave the pope full sovereignty over what is now the Vatican City, with its own postal service, currency, newspaper, radio station, train station and army of Swiss Guards.
The tourist office (69 88 44 66), in Piazza San Pietro to the left of the basilica, is open 8.30 am to 7 pm Monday to Saturday. Guided tours of the Vatican City gardens (9 €) can be organised here.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
St Peter's Basilica & Square
The largest and most famous church in the Christian world, San Pietro stands on the site where St Peter was buried. The first church on the site was built during Constantine's reign in the 4th century, and in 1506 work started on a new basilica, designed by Bramante.
Although several architects were involved in its construction, it is generally held that St Peter's owes more to Michelangelo, who took over the project in 1547 and was responsible for the design of the dome. He died before the church was completed. The cavernous interior contains numerous treasures, including Michelangelo's superb Pieta, sculpted when he was only 24 years old and the only work to carry his signature (on the sash across the breast of the Madonna).
Bernini's huge, baroque Baldacchino (a heavily sculpted bronze canopy over the papal altar) stands 29m high and is an extraordinary work of art. Another point of note is the red porphyry disc near the central door, which marks the spot where Charlemagne and later emperors were crowned by the pope.
Entrance to Michelangelo's soaring dome is to the right as you climb the stairs to the atrium of the basilica. Make the entire climb on foot for 4 €, or pay 5 € and take the elevator for part of the way (recommended).
The basilica is open 7 am to 7 pm daily (6 pm in winter) and dress rules are stringently enforced - no shorts, miniskirts or sleeveless tops. Prams and strollers must be left in a designated area outside the basilica.
Bernini's Piazza San Pietro (St Peter's Square) is considered a masterpiece. Laid out in the 17th century as a place for Christians of the world to gather, the immense piazza is bound by two semicircular colonnades, each of which is made up of four rows of Doric columns. In the centre of the piazza is an obelisk that was brought to Rome by Caligula from Heliopolis (in ancient Egypt). When you stand on the dark paving stones between the obelisk and either of the fountains, the colonnades appear to have only one row of columns.
The Pope usually gives a public audience at 10 or 11 am every Wednesday in the Papal Audience Hall. You must make a booking, either in person or by fax to the Prefettura della Casa Pontifica (69 88 30 17, fax 69 88 58 63), between 9 am and 1 pm on the Monday or Thursday before the audience. Go through the bronze doors under the colonnade to the right as you face the basilica.
Vatican Museums
From St Peter's follow the wall of the Vatican City (to the right as you face the basilica) to the museums, or catch the regular shuttle bus (1 €) from the piazza in front of the tourist office. The museums are open 8.45 am to 3.45 pm Monday to Friday (to 12.45 on Saturday). Admission is 8 €. The museums are closed on Sunday and public holidays, but open on the last Sunday of every month from 9 am to 1 pm (free admission, but queues are always very long). Guided visits to the Vatican gardens cost 9 € and can be booked by calling 69 88 44 66.
The Vatican museums contain an incredible collection of art and treasures collected by the popes, and you will need several hours to see the most important areas and museums.
The Museo Pio-Clementino, containing Greek and Roman antiquities, is on the ground floor near the entrance. Through the tapestry and map galleries are the Stanze di Rafaello, once the private apartment of Pope Julius II, decorated with frescoes by Raphael. Of particular interest is the magnificent Stanza della Segnatura, which features Raphael's masterpieces The School of Athens and Disputation on the Sacrament.
From Raphael's rooms, go down the stairs to the sumptuous Appartamento Borgia, which is decorated with frescoes by Pinturicchio. Then go down another flight of stairs to the Sistine Chapel, the private papal chapel built in 1473 for Pope Sixtus IV. Michelangelo's wonderful frescoes of the Creation on the barrel-vaulted ceiling and Last Judgment on the end wall have both been restored to their original brilliance. It took Michelangelo four years, at the height of the Renaissance, to paint the ceiling; 24 years later he painted the extraordinary Last Judgment. The other walls of the chapel were painted by artists including Botticelli, Ghirlandaio, Pinturicchio and Signorelli. To best enjoy the ceiling frescoes, a pocket mirror is recommended so that you don't have to strain your neck.
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