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Conquered by the Romans but never fully occupied by the Turks, this enchanting corner of Hungary contains picturesque small towns and cities with a decidedly European air.
Bland Komarom is the gateway to Hungary for visitors arriving from Komarno in Slovakia. There's a good camping ground (next to the public thermal baths) within walking distance of the train station and border crossing, and a couple of inexpensive hotels.
GYOR
Gyor is a historic city midway between Budapest and Vienna.
Gyor is Hungary's third-largest industrial centre, but you'd never know it when you're standing in the charming old centre. Most travellers give it a miss, but it's less touristy than Esztergom, Sopron or Eger and well worth a visit.
Things to See
Szechenyi ter is the heart of Gyor and features St Ignatius Church (1641), with its superb pulpit, pews and ceiling frescoes. At Szechenyi ter 4, the Imre Patko Collection of paintings and Asian and African art is one of Hungary's finest small collections.
A short walk north-west of Szechenyi ter is Kaptalandomb (Chapter Hill), the oldest part of Gyor. The large baroque cathedral on the hill was originally Romanesque; the Gothic Hedervary Chapel on the cathedral's southern side contains a glittering 15th-century bust of King (and St) Ladislas.
The streets behind the cathedral are full of old palaces; at the bottom of the hill on Jedlik Anyos utca is the outstanding Ark of the Covenant, a large baroque statue dating from 1731.
Gyor's well-maintained thermal baths are west of the Raba River - cross Raba ketto's hid (Raba Double Bridge) over the little island and walk north to Orszag lit 4. The covered pool is open all year and the pools and grassy strand from May to September.
SOPRON
Sopron (Odenburg in German) sits right on the Austrian border, 217km west of Budapest and only 69km south of Vienna. In 1921 the town voted to remain part of Hungary, while the rest of Burgenland (the region to which Sopron used to belong) went to Austria. In the small, horseshoe-shaped old town, still partly enclosed by medieval walls, almost every building is historically important -this is Sopron's principal charm.
Things to See
The 60m-high Fire Tower above the old town's northern gate is a true architectural hybrid: the square base dates from the 12th century, the arcaded balcony from the 16th and the baroque spire from 1680. Climb to the top for a good view (closed Monday).
There are several excellent museums on Fo ter. Fabricius House at No 6 is a comprehensive historical museum. Storno House at No 8 is a famous Renaissance palace (1560) that is now a museum of Romanesque and Gothic art.
A unique museum of Jewish life is housed in the 14th-century Old Synagogue at Uj utca 22 (closed Tuesday and October to February). Jews were an important part of the community until their expulsion in 1526.
KOSZEG
Koszeg (Guns in German) is a small town at the foot of the Koszeg Hills, just 3km from the Austrian border. It has played pivotal roles in the nation's defence on several occasions througout history. Mt Irottko (882m), which is south-west of town and straddling the border, is the highest point in Transdanubia.
At its centre is the old town, a colourful well-preserved medieval precinct, which includes Jurisics Castle (1263), now a historical museum (closed Monday). Jurisics ter, Koszeg's pleasant main square, hasn't changed much since the 18th century.
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